NEW YORK,SEPTEMBER 12, 2018 by EMILY FARRA Mona Kowalska is celebrating A Détacher’s 20th anniversary this year, but you probably didn’t know that. Hers is the ultimate niche, community-driven brand; it flies way, way under the radar, despite maintaining a healthy business and very devoted clientele. Kowalska’s discrete Nolita shop is a testament to that—for starters, it’s still open while Soho stores nearby are shuttering—and she said at least half the women who come in are regular customers, many of whom are now friends. Her design studio is downstairs, so she’s able to take breaks from working on a new print or complicated pattern to enjoy some face time with them. So no, there won’t be a massive party or Instagram campaign to remind you that A Détacher just hit two decades. In fact, Kowalska didn’t even have a show at New York Fashion Week this season, the first time she’s been off the calendar in at least eight years. What she did instead was actually a better representation of why, exactly, A Détacher is so beloved by such a specific group of women: She shot the collection in her Brooklyn home—in the kitchen, the walk-in closet, and surrounded by artwork and books. The results bring a new sense of immediacy to the clothes, because you’re seeing them worn in the exact, idealized way Kowalska imagined. In the opening image, a model stands in her foyer holding a coffee cup and tote bag, as if she’s about to head out for a day of errands or to dinner with friends. Kowalska’s most die-hard fans will dream of wearing her look: a balloon-sleeved dress, stacked-heel boots, and practical tote, each smothered in abstract logos (a first for the label). If the A Détacher woman wants a logo, well . . . you can bet that trend isn’t going anywhere. The voluminous dress turned up several more times in this collection: in the logo print, solid navy cotton, and a drapey black gauze, plus a similar style with just one sleeve. It had the arty, willfully sexless vibe A Détacher is known for, as did the sack-like denim dresses, pleated mesh skirts, and billowy harem pants. The offbeat, eccentric look is trending right now on other New York runways, but Kowalska said that at times she feels we’ve reached a post-design moment in fashion, where the clothes themselves are a bit of an afterthought. She insisted that even those loose, away-from-the-body shapes are still very much designed. The knot details on the balloon sleeves required days of tweaking the pattern, and a blouse with asymmetrical, wrap-effect sleeves was similarly laborious. The clothes are intellectual, nonconformist, and woman-friendly—everything we want from fashion right now—but they’re still highly considered.